Every residency needs a front man like Ed. He has the ability to gregariously flirt with everyone in the room, male or female, making you feel like you are the best customer he has had all night. His confidence and enthusiasm is well founded as his business, Made of Dough, is fantastic.
Currently hosting a six week residency at Market Yard (Wednesday to Sunday), this is a pizza pop up with a difference. Set within the railway arches at Shepherd’s Bush Market, Made of Dough are a breath of fresh air for the West London food scene.
This is helped largely by the location. Market Yard in itself is a beautiful space with lots of character. The railway arch is an architectural statement that shapes the entire interior of the pop up, creating a cozy bunker, which set back from the street, feels like you have entered a secret hideout. We all love the feeling of finding somewhere new and exclusive, it is what makes speakeasies so popular and the fact that there is a place like this in Shepherds Bush is exciting.
Inside it has all the coolness that a Shoreditch pop up hopes to achieve, without the pretentiousness. The crowd is varied, ranging from a family with grandparents, to large groups of students and young professionals after work. With a playlist of reggae and 90s ballads the atmosphere is relaxed and carefree.
We sat outside in the plastic covered terrace, which is much warmer than it sounds. Our table was in a prime location, opposite the big pizza oven where two chefs were engrossed in the production line of pizzas. For a Wednesday the atmosphere was buzzing. Made of Dough was fully booked with tables being turned way past 9pm.
The menu is concise, three cocktails, five pizzas, as many sides and one pudding. Out of the cocktails the Almafi Negroni was our favourite. The gin has been replaced with home made limoncello, made from Amalfi lemons, which lends a freshness and a sweetness to the cocktail, making it great for Spring.
Out of the pizzas we couldn’t decide between the two vegetarian options: Portobello mushroom, fior de latte, white alba truffle oil & burrata or Fresh grilled artichoke hearts, fior de latte, rosemary & garlic oil so Ed suggested we get half and half. This was a great decision as both were very different yet equally delectable. The rosemary works wonderfully with the artichoke, its woody fragrance matching the acidity of the vegetable, lending an earthy complexity to the pizza which is delicious. The amount of truffle used on the mushroom pizza has been tested to a key, enough that you get the much loved fragrance when the pizza arrives yet subtle enough as not to overpower the creamy burrata.
We also ate Made of Dough’s signature Chorizo & piquillo pepper pizza which was dubbed the ‘best in the UK’ at the London Pizza Festival. It was oily and saucy in the best possible way – the filthy cousin of its vegetarian counterparts.
What came through from all the pizzas was the quality of the ingredients used. Ed and his business partner Henry source the majority of their produce from Campania and Andalusia, a nod to the pairs heritage. Henry’s family are from the Amalfi coast whilst Ed’s are from Jerez.
As you would expect from a business named Made of Dough, the pizza bases themselves are brilliant. They have a generous crust which is light and aerated, charred in places where the dough has risen and popped in the heat of the oven. There is none of the heaviness that you might expect from a doughier type of pizza. Upon eating, the dough has all the signs of having had a proper proving. Its slightly soured, nutty flavour is an indication of its quality. The dough is fermented for a minimum of 60 hours, giving it flavour and making it easier to digest.
Ingeniously to accompany the pizza, Made of Dough offer sauces, tasty little pots in which to dip your pizza crust. We get the Basil aioli and Spicy romesco, both of which are fantastic.
Made of Dough take bookings and there is space for larger parties. If you can’t get yourself down before the 1st of May don’t despair as Henry and Ed have a spot in Pop Brixton where they are open six days a week. Whilst I am a fan of the inside/outside feel of Pop Brixton, the atmosphere at Market Yard is incredible. So if you are in the area I would definitely make a visit to this residency a priority.
Made of Dough Residency, Shepherds Bush Yard, Goldhawk Road, W12 8HA £ 8/10